Peru: The $700 Journey

I finally made it to Peru and no short of a millon little struggles.  I though I would have at least one travel post about some of the difficulties of international travel.
The first leg to Houston I made with no problems.   Just as everyone was about to board to Lima, the plane had mechanical errors. We then all needed to switch planes whichof course  was too small!  Therefore, 24 volunteers were needed to take another flight.  Well the reward was a $700 voucher good for one year!  I jumped on that, and was given a room and food for the night and next day and a flight the following morning connecting in Panama... That too was delayed!
And to top it off my bag was lost meaning I had to take an extra day in Lima (there are worse places to get stranded in 3 day old underwear) before I could take my 22 hour bus trip to Cusco.  Well I am here now and all is well :P
Time to start traveling

My super comfy bus seat to Cusco that reclined nearly all the way and featured on demand moves in Spanish with subtitles and a few in English. As well as wifi, and meals and drinks included. Best bus I have ever taken! 

Cusco : Adventures in Cusco-topia

Its been a bit over a week in Cusco and I am working hard to sum up my time here.  This city is truly fantastic.  Though it may be a tourist hub there are tons of museums, a fabulous market, lots of great squares, and wonderful shopping.

San Pedro Market is my favorite stop.  As is well known I love to spend time is local market places.  This market is very clean compared to its Asian counterparts.  I have started my mornings with a freshly squeezed juice made of carrots, banana, orange, and Maca powder!  If you want you can be so healthy in Peru.  The rows are lines with Chia seeds, Quinoa in all colors, Maca, loads of chocolate, and setvia.  There are fruits I have never heard of, such a noni, which is meant to cure cancer and help digestion.  In the lower areas women sell all sorts of treats like Jello, cakes, hot coco, and cerviche.  Additional booths have fresh fish eggs, seaweed, all types of other herbs, and of course... huge logs of sacred paulo santo that the hippies would dye to get there hands on for the alters!

The streets of Cusco are lined with both high end alpaca shops and vendors who sell lower quality alpaca hats, socks, sweaters, and scarfs.  All the kinds of Peruvian gifts that anyone has ever dreamed of are here next to adorable cafes fulls of tasty treats and sweets (they do love there treats here especially ice cream).

I bought a 10 day tourist pass which gave me access to many museums around town as well as ruins in the Sacred Valley area.  I spent a few days visiting these and exploring the winding streets.  It was a great collection of exhibits that ranged between Incan history, Spanish colonialism, and modern Peruvian Art.  On my day two friends I had met in Lima arrived and we packed our bags and set off on a self designed tour of the Sacred Valley that took us all the way to Machu Pichu and back!

*Something I have noticed is the disabled ramps in Cusco.  There are on almost every corner and while there are many stairs to climb in this hilly city most streets have ramps.  I am not saying it would be easy to get around seeing as it is cobble stone in most areas.  However, all ramps are marked.  They also seem better here than in some American towns.  Just an observation...

Machu Pichu: AKA Mucho Pictures

There are about A million tour agencies to help you get to Machu Pichu.  Ofthose  agencies they have about 100 different options to help you get there.  Each way cost like $500.  It was just way to overwhelming for me.  So, I came up with my own plan!  Why not make up my own tour that would let me see all the cool little towns on that way to Machu Pichu and call it ¨Lauren´s Tour de La Sacred Valley.¨  Works for me.  So here was the plan.
Day 1 Pisac
Day 2 Chinchero, Maras, Ollayntaytambo
Day 3 Figure out how to bus/walk to Aguas Calientes
Day 4 Hike to Machu Pichu
Day 5 Cusco
Well it kinda worked...
Everything went well untill we reached Oyantayambo.  The ruins in each town were wonderful.  I loved visting each town and taking in the sacred valley with just two friends rather than on a tour. To help with my knowledge I picked up a book along the way called `The Andean Codex,` about Quechua Incan Shamanism and the Sacred Valley.  That allong with my guide book gave us some reference on the significance of the areas we were trekking through.

Women sitting by the ruins at Chinchero

Local artisan near Chincero market

Moray, where they believe the Incas learned many farming practices

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However, once we reached Ollayntaytambo our plans got rocky.  We realized we could not reach Aguas Calientes and Machu Pichu safely by car and foot and would need to splurge for the train.  Oh well!  Also we all seemed to have eaten something that didn`t sit well and took a day to rest :(

A day later we were on our way and to our relief the rest day meant we skipped the busiest and rainiest day of the week!
The following morning myself and travel companions woke up at 4AM to begin the 500 meter acent to Machu Pichu. 

 It only took a bit over an hour in all and we took a break at the top before spending the next 7 hours trekking around from the edge of the sun gate and around the entire complex, stopping whenever a prime llama picture presented the opportunity.  (Its as if they flash their eyelashes just to show you how camera ready they are).  

It may have been nice to higher a guide but there were plenty of large tourists groups to sneak into we just happened to be a bit dirtier then most of the other partcipants. All in all Machu Pichu success culminating in the best rotisserie chicken dinner I have ever had!  Kudos Aguas Calientes.

Funny little dog in Aguas Calientes that looks like our family dog Zorro!

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It took two more days to return to Cusco as we decided to spend another full day and night in Ollayntaytambo, liking thetown and  the hostel so much.  When we arrived an enormous fair for the towns birthday was in full swing, giving the perfect opportunity to party with the locals and try some tasty local eats like river trout, chicha (sweet corn juice), and lots of fried chicked and churros!

Then back to home sweet Cusco, my juice lady, a comfy bed, clean clothes, reliable WiFi, homemade high altitude Irish beer, and halloween.

*If Peruvians can find an opportunity to have a parade, street fair, marching band, rally, dress up, or yell scream and cheer abut something it is bound an sure to happen.  Rarely has three days gone by that I have not witnessed one or more of these things at once.  It`s great.

Another random religious celebration (couldn't understand what it was for) 

Oaxaca: Holy Mole

Oaxaca, Mexico May 2014!  A short off season break to get away from the mud of Colorado snow melt and expereince the flavors of south central Mexico.  To be honest I never considered backpacking to Mexico until my friend from college, Andy, mentioned the idea of visiting Oaxaca city and the coast for a few weeks.  I did a bit of research, and my restless legs, wandering mind, and belly all agreed.  Needless to say I have thus far thoroughly enjoyed non-resort Mexico.

A bit on Oaxaca.  First off, everyone should, if they already have not, try Molé.  its amazing.  A strange combination of chocolate, chili, and maybe tomatillos.  This thick sauce really tastes good with anything.
Every corner in Oaxaca is full of flavorful treats that are dangerous for a foodie like myself who holds no limits to what she will try (even crickets!).

Oaxaca is colorful.  Actually Mexico is colorful.  Most of the buildings are cement or stucco.  They are painted in brilliant colors of blue, purple, and green.  People are dressed in brilliant colors and embridery.  I generally think when I see pictures of typical clothing thats this will be just for show.  However, homes seem to be decorated in woven cloths and painted pottery.  Some places almost look sureal and I have found myself thinking "really, is this for a photo or do you actually live this way!"  Andy and I have had so much fun merely exploring all corners of the city for its utter cuteness and to speak with all the friendly shop keepers who help us with our mediocre (at best) Spanish.

Needless to say Oaxaca is a fabulous city and worth the exploration.

Also, Andy got an awesome hat!