Machu Pichu: AKA Mucho Pictures

There are about A million tour agencies to help you get to Machu Pichu.  Ofthose  agencies they have about 100 different options to help you get there.  Each way cost like $500.  It was just way to overwhelming for me.  So, I came up with my own plan!  Why not make up my own tour that would let me see all the cool little towns on that way to Machu Pichu and call it ¨Lauren´s Tour de La Sacred Valley.¨  Works for me.  So here was the plan.
Day 1 Pisac
Day 2 Chinchero, Maras, Ollayntaytambo
Day 3 Figure out how to bus/walk to Aguas Calientes
Day 4 Hike to Machu Pichu
Day 5 Cusco
Well it kinda worked...
Everything went well untill we reached Oyantayambo.  The ruins in each town were wonderful.  I loved visting each town and taking in the sacred valley with just two friends rather than on a tour. To help with my knowledge I picked up a book along the way called `The Andean Codex,` about Quechua Incan Shamanism and the Sacred Valley.  That allong with my guide book gave us some reference on the significance of the areas we were trekking through.

Women sitting by the ruins at Chinchero

Local artisan near Chincero market

Moray, where they believe the Incas learned many farming practices

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However, once we reached Ollayntaytambo our plans got rocky.  We realized we could not reach Aguas Calientes and Machu Pichu safely by car and foot and would need to splurge for the train.  Oh well!  Also we all seemed to have eaten something that didn`t sit well and took a day to rest :(

A day later we were on our way and to our relief the rest day meant we skipped the busiest and rainiest day of the week!
The following morning myself and travel companions woke up at 4AM to begin the 500 meter acent to Machu Pichu. 

 It only took a bit over an hour in all and we took a break at the top before spending the next 7 hours trekking around from the edge of the sun gate and around the entire complex, stopping whenever a prime llama picture presented the opportunity.  (Its as if they flash their eyelashes just to show you how camera ready they are).  

It may have been nice to higher a guide but there were plenty of large tourists groups to sneak into we just happened to be a bit dirtier then most of the other partcipants. All in all Machu Pichu success culminating in the best rotisserie chicken dinner I have ever had!  Kudos Aguas Calientes.

Funny little dog in Aguas Calientes that looks like our family dog Zorro!

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It took two more days to return to Cusco as we decided to spend another full day and night in Ollayntaytambo, liking thetown and  the hostel so much.  When we arrived an enormous fair for the towns birthday was in full swing, giving the perfect opportunity to party with the locals and try some tasty local eats like river trout, chicha (sweet corn juice), and lots of fried chicked and churros!

Then back to home sweet Cusco, my juice lady, a comfy bed, clean clothes, reliable WiFi, homemade high altitude Irish beer, and halloween.

*If Peruvians can find an opportunity to have a parade, street fair, marching band, rally, dress up, or yell scream and cheer abut something it is bound an sure to happen.  Rarely has three days gone by that I have not witnessed one or more of these things at once.  It`s great.

Another random religious celebration (couldn't understand what it was for) 

Oaxaca: Holy Mole

Oaxaca, Mexico May 2014!  A short off season break to get away from the mud of Colorado snow melt and expereince the flavors of south central Mexico.  To be honest I never considered backpacking to Mexico until my friend from college, Andy, mentioned the idea of visiting Oaxaca city and the coast for a few weeks.  I did a bit of research, and my restless legs, wandering mind, and belly all agreed.  Needless to say I have thus far thoroughly enjoyed non-resort Mexico.

A bit on Oaxaca.  First off, everyone should, if they already have not, try Molé.  its amazing.  A strange combination of chocolate, chili, and maybe tomatillos.  This thick sauce really tastes good with anything.
Every corner in Oaxaca is full of flavorful treats that are dangerous for a foodie like myself who holds no limits to what she will try (even crickets!).

Oaxaca is colorful.  Actually Mexico is colorful.  Most of the buildings are cement or stucco.  They are painted in brilliant colors of blue, purple, and green.  People are dressed in brilliant colors and embridery.  I generally think when I see pictures of typical clothing thats this will be just for show.  However, homes seem to be decorated in woven cloths and painted pottery.  Some places almost look sureal and I have found myself thinking "really, is this for a photo or do you actually live this way!"  Andy and I have had so much fun merely exploring all corners of the city for its utter cuteness and to speak with all the friendly shop keepers who help us with our mediocre (at best) Spanish.

Needless to say Oaxaca is a fabulous city and worth the exploration.

Also, Andy got an awesome hat!

Trip Planning: Can't Throw Off The Groove

So when I decided to move to Aspen I knew there were two off seasons.  This meant a prospective 4 months out of the year that I could travel.  However, I thought that I was to late to the game for this off season to get a good price on a ticket to go anywhere.  I was dreading the idea of sitting by as all my new friends took off on there well deserved epic adventures.  How WRONG I was...  This boundless nomad will always find a way!

Next stop, Peru

October 16- November 14th.  Bring it on one month of amazing trekking, astrology lessons, high altitude lakes, and as many Emperors New Groove jokes as I can get away.

-Happy traveler out :o)

How to Barter in Global Markets: Deal Or No Deal

I always look forward to bartering while shopping during my travels.  It makes each trip to the market more exciting, and sometimes exhausting.  Once I even had to haggle for a toilet paper! its really a head-hanging  feeling when you walk away with that sad little plastic bag full of the things you need at and overpriced ticket.  Or ride the sweaty 7 hour local bus journey for more then double the price because at least you got then down to half of what they began at!  This is how I feel what I do not get the deal I hoped for

However, when I do get that deal its like sky's opened up and you just know is going to be a good day.  Who needed that cup of coffee anyway right? I am a lucky girl today.  Here is how I feel when I get a phenomenally good price.

Bargaining is all part of the experience and something we backpackers pride ourselves on being experts at.  There is nothing like the feeling that you have scored the price the locals get especially in those countries like Vietnam and Indonesia that are world renowned for ripping westerners off.  

Here are some little tips:

-Do NOT buy the first thing you see.  Unless you only are going to one shop you will see it again.

-It is best to buy early in the morning or just before close.  In SE Asia in the morning locals are anxious for a good sale so they can see it as a sign that it will be a good day.  After you will see them tap the money all over there store.  Otherwise you want to catch a stall on a bad day which is frequent because here are so many redundant shops.

-I usually start at 1/2 price and try to get that or 3/4 price.

-If you see many of the same thing around and go between shops to see who has the best and they stay the same its probably a standard price for the quality.

Happy Hunting

Medan, Indonesia

I was recently riding in the creatively built, local sumatran version of a motorbike sidecar on my way to the bus terminal when I see an older Indonesian man riding his beat up rusty bike along side the road.  What do you know but on the front of his bike is his pet monkey dressed in a yellow and red stripped shirt standing on he front while playing his little drum.  Shame my camera wasn't at the ready.

Bukit Lawang: Orangutans and Jungle Songs

Jungle trek, jungle trek in Bukit Lawang. See the monkeys, see the birds, see orangutans, Hey!

 -The little jingle that is sung every night at Nora's Homestay in Bukit Lawang,

Sumatra where I traveled to see one one of the two remaining groups of Orangutans left in the world.  Let me say, the flight and the two bus rides left over from my nightmares about Ghanian bus journeys was well worth the trip.

Bukit Lawang is set along side a beautiful river.  The town is mainly accessible by foot however, the brave Indonesians drive the small paths, and even the steps, on their battered motorbikes.  On one side of the river is the town and the opposite side sits what remains of Sumatra's protected jungle and Orangutan population.  I decided to do a one day jungle trek to see these amazing apes and their habitat.  The trek was ore than exciting.  We clambered over slippery rocks and down muddy ravines, using robes like Tarzan to guide ourselves safely down.  I only slipped once leaving me with a spot of shame on my booty!  While playing native wild animal tracker for the day my group and I spotted at least 10 Orangutans including a few babies and those who had just left there mothers.  We ended our day with a rafting trip down the river and right back to Nora's Homestay.

I cannot say the guides follow all the rules on leaving the orangutans alone and allowing them to remain wild.  Many feed them fruit directly from their hands.  This can give them human diseases and potentially kill the remaining population.  The guides have been told by the wildlife organizations based in the area not to but, more orangutans means more tips.  I was really fortunate to have a guide who told us all about this.  When we saw huge groups of tourists crowding an orangutan he told us to keep our distance as they do bite often due to sudden fear from a camera flash or becoming overwhelmed.  Our small group with the great guide spotted many orangutans and other monkeys like gibbons and even wild peacocks without another tour group around.  Ethical issues aside, it was a fantastic day!

Fun Facts:

Orangutan means person of the forest in Bahasa- the main language of Indonesia 

Orangutans only live in Sumatra and Borneo

Large males can weigh around 100 KG

They eat mostly fruit and all fruit they consume are safe for humans to eat

Babies stay with the mother for 5-6 years and a female orangutan will have up to 3 babies in her lifetime

Nepal: A Love Story

I have never felt more at home, nor more attached to a foreign country than I do to Nepal.  From the first few hours I could feel myself begin to relax and connect with the energy of the country  Even the hustle of Kathmandu fit just right.  The mountains, spirit of the people, non confrontational religions, and culture (religion as the culture) all combined to produce a wonderful energy throughout the country.

Those who know me well know that Lauren in the mountains is a more productive version of myself.   Something about their encompassing nature makes me feel empowered, humbled, and protected all at once.  I also truly believe mountains hold great energy that certain people pick up on.  Hence why people like to hike and camp in them so much!  So I guess I have become, or always was, one of those people. Although I complained about my ski suit as a kid I did love zipping down the hill while someone chased after me.

Therefore, trekking in Nepal was no different.  It was amazing and I feel in those two weeks I grew (actually I shrank!) more confidence and perseverance than I have my entire journey.  But I'll do a longer post on that later!

For those of you who do not know, Nepal has been in and out of political unrest for the past 12 years. In 2001 the Nepalese Royal Family was massacred by Maoist Rebels.  This shook the country as many thought the king was invisible and a descendent of the gods.  The country tried to switch to democracy as Maoists attempted to control the country and start a civil war.  This is still the situation though the Maoists remain at bay.  Today they mostly try to control from the government and through bribery  in mountain villages.  However strikes are a regular occurrence and can become violent.  Elections are in the process however their date is a huge issue that needs to be resolved.

This is where I truly fell in love with the people.  They are brilliant.  Where in many countries the locals would look passively and accept the fate of their nations this is NOT the case in Nepal especially amongst the youth.  I had numerous conversions with Nepali's my own age about their political situation.  What was interesting was that they did not only look at the issues that faced them but were aware of world politics and what countries they did and did not want to resemble.  I was so excited after coming from brainwashed Vietnam that I just wanted to hug everyone!  There knowledge ad willingness to participate in strikes, education, and desire to always return to Nepal gave them and myself assurance that Nepal will be a successful, independent and politically peaceful nation in the future.

Moving on to  religion and the people...

In Nepal, the primary practiced religion is Mahayana (northern) Buddhism.  I recently have become very interested in Northern and Tibetan Buddhism which are very different from southern.  Though I would not call myself a Buddhist I find them fascinating and Would love to know more or even spent some time at an ashram.  I could go into more detail on the religion but if anyone is interested on what I know send me a Facebook message or write a comment and I will write a post soon enough on what I know and what I learned in Nepal.

I refer to the religion in Nepal as non confrontational because although it is constantly surrounding there is never a pressure to convert only a request to respect.  The educational value of this is immense, as someone is always available to help with questions and offer knowledge of the religion whether Hindu or Buddhism.  This attitude is not only apparent in the religion but also in the culture. However, it is not necessarily the nature of Hinduism to be non confrontational and is a misconception in the practice of Buddhism too.  For example, shop owners still hassled me and I received the occasional wedding invitation.  Additionally consider India, which is majority Hindu, and the troubles it faces.  Somehow the Nepali People (which hates-I don't use lightly- India by the way) have emphasized this aspect of both religions in their daily lives.

The non-confrontation can be a bit of a problem for the country however.  Nepal has a history of being pushed around by its neighbors India and China.  Hopefully the invigorated youth that are fighting for a new government will protect against the looming presence of China who already steals so much of its water and stole land from its neighbor, killing thousands and leaving an entire race of Tibetans homeless and landless in Nepal and India.

Though the countries problems may come from its kind nature or its blessed natural environment this has not seemed to hinder the happiness and overall positive energy that flows in title waves.
Hopefully this post is a good explanation of my experience in Nepal.  I changed to much in a short time to truly describe how wonderful the country is for me.  Its as if everything just worked right and I was able to hold a clear head, working through things quickly that previously has spun round and round in my conscious and subconsious.  I know I will make it back and I urge my close friends to find the time to go as well.

Namaste, from the slightly more enlightened Backpacker

Lauren